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DJ 6's Build Thread E46 M3

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    Posted: 17 Oct 2018 at 1:31pm
Hey Rich, noticed you sold your E46. I guess it comes to a stage when how much can you spend before it comes unviable. I dread to think what I have spent on this knowing I could have something newer but......can't part with it as I can't imagine driving anything else. What probably helps is the fact I do a lot of work myself if I feel confident and competent to do it. Plus thinking long term as it is an investment in a way but would be nice if I can hand it down to my son 20 years down the line. Thankfully its still pretty good underneath compared to other 18 year or younger cars out there but of course now she does need paintwork so fresh respray of the whole car will be done soon.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote rpennington Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Sep 2018 at 9:22pm
hi Dj
Good to see you posting more stuff on here with this thread. I had my E46 for 12 years & apart from servicing & maintenance items & the usual things like bushes etc like yourself with your E46 the only other things I did to mine were cosmetic things. I did keep mine the same as when I bought it all those years ago.
I changed the windscreen scuttle panel trim because like yours had perished & split but mine was in a worst state than yours but I guess that’s due to being an older car, when i changed mine I didn’t use a puller tool. I changed all the possible front bushes to powerflex but still ended up going through the lower wishbone arms about twice due to the bushes perishing,mine were lemforder purchased from eurocar parts. I did a few other things during my ownership but I wasn’t prepared to spend anymore money on it after it went for an mot & was told the near side jacking points were starting to corrode & would need cutting out & welding,another common problem area on the E46’s.

Rich

2011-E90 325d M Sport
1999-E46 323i se Saloon - Sold

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DJ Syxx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Sep 2018 at 4:34pm
So onto starting the jobs. If you plan on doing a power steering overhaul, be warned. Its a very messy job and will require a little patience as you will have fluid coming out of every orifice you can think of.

As the steering rack and lower joint was to be removed, straighten your wheel first and then lock the steering wheel. Do not under any cirumstance unlock it and move it about so you can get make life easy for removing certain bolts as you will be in sh*t creek when it comes to making sure everything is straight.

First you need to remove the undertray which is 7mm bolts dotted around easy to do. Once that is done you now need to remove the aluminium chassis plate taking off all 12 bolts. You need a 17mm socket for these.
982 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Now onto the outer track/tie rod and get a 16mm socket on the nut and crack it open. The nut is a one time use only so with your new rods, it will come with a new nut. I found it was easy to undo for a bit and then gave some resistance so you will need a longer bar so you can give it more torque to remove.
983 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Once its off you will need to use a ball joint seperator tool to free it from the hub or a pickle fork and hammer it out. Once both ends are free you now need to start extracting power steering fluid from the resovoir.

To access it I had to remove my airbox and then it was a case of using my fluid extractor. You can use a suction baster etc.
984 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Now back under the car as you can see both sides of the rack is weepy fluid which points to the seals in the rack have failed.
985 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
986 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Took the one time use oetiker clips off
987 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Used my special tool to clamp and remove the inner tie rod from the rack:
988 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Pictured is the steering coupler. You need a E10 socket to remove and there is two. The one below you will need an E10 wrench as you won't get a ratchet on there.
989 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

If you're removing the control arms, the middle nut is a 22mm and is awkward to remove with a ratchet. I found it was easier to use the double spanner method to crack them open so patience is needed to remove.
990 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
991 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

The rack is bolted through the subframe using a 15 and 16mm nut and bolt and are simple to remove:
992 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

You then need to remove the lines off the rack, so starting with the banjo bolts which are 22mm and 19mm. The banjo bolts have a crush washer either side so you will need new ones. You will need a pan to catch the fluid so will be a little waiting game:
993 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
994 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

The lines have a 10mm bolt that connects to the rack so you will need to remove that:
995 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Once that's done the rack is out:
996 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

One of the hoses is a high pressure hose and that goes to the power steering pump so after reading up about owners having to replace them or rebuilding due to leakage I decided to get it refurbed. So simply remove the 22mm banjo bolt from the pump. Again be careful as fluid will seep out:
997 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Rack and steering coupler removed:
998 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

High pressure hose removed and ready for rebuilding:
999 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Looking a little bare. I dropped the antiroll bar from the brackets as it got in the way:
1000 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

So with the overhaul I decided to remove the pump. It was in working order but figured it would save time later on from having to deal with it later. I also wanted the original pump refurbed rather than buying an exchange unit just for OCD more than anything.
1001 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
1002 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
1003 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

So while the rack and pump was sent off for rebuilding. I got on with other things that needed doing. One of the things I noticed was when replacing my drive belts two years back, the deflection pulley was making a skateboard sound when you spun it so I got on with removing it IIRC is a 16mm bolt:
1004 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Removed:
1005 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

As I was working in the same area I removed the old adjusting pulley as I found that was exhibiting similar symptoms. To remove you need a Hex H8 male socket bit:
1006 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Removed:
1007 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

So in with the new and bought genuine ones from BMW which are INA branded:
1008 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
1009 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Note the deflection pulley has a notch and is off centre so you simply fit it back in the same way:
1010 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
1011 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

So this left me with removing the final lines and power steering resoirvoir. You have a hose connecting from the resoirvoir to the cooling coil. Word of warning these are a nightmare to remove as they use a quick disconnect fitting. The tool to remove it is one of these: CTA Tools 3466 BMW Power Steering and Transmission Line Disconnect Tool: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

So I got the first one off:
1012 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Unfortunately the second one which is one of the power steering lines to the coil did not want to come off with the tool. It was literally siezed on and no amount of WD40 helped with freeing it up.

So I ended up having to carefully cut the shell of the clip using a mini dremel. As you will see there was no way it could be removed as corrosion had set in.
1013 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Finally free:
1014 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Old parts chucked away and new parts on order:
1015 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

My rack came back from Western Power Steering all rebuilt and should last for a long while with no issues:
1016 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

The rebuilt pump came back from ACS Powersteering:
1017 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
1018 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
1019 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

After finding out that the main pressure hose was over £200 from the dealers I settled on rebuilding my existing one. So I took it down to Pirtek to have it rebuilt while retaining the banjo connectors and cooling loop. There's also a reason I asked them to keep the loop intact as you will see later:
1020 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Brand new hoses ordered and new Vaico tank:
1021 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
1022 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Tie rods lengthened the same to the existing ones and new gaiters fitted:
1023 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

So was time to fit it all back. The steering coupler if you notice there is a notch you simply place the coupler in the correct orientation so that the E10 bolt goes through recess:
1024 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
1025 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Onto the control arms, when taking them off remember to remove the xenon self levelling adjuster. The clip that goes round the control arm is a bit of a pain to remove so careful not to break it. Once its removed, fit it on last once you have the control arms in:
1026 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Next was to put the new bushes/brackets onto the arms. Get some fairy liquid and water for lube and push it on. Ensure its put on in the correct position ie not to far in. I used my existing arms as a guide to match:
1027 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Fitted and ready to go on:
1028 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

While everything was out and with easy access I decided to replace the o2 sensors on the manifolds. You simply remove the engine cover off to expose the plugs. To remove the o2 sensors on the manifolds, you will need a special socket for this which can be bought on ebay.
1029 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Brand new Bosch sensors. Do one sensor at a time so you don't get mixed up:
1030 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

So this brings us back to the power steering lines and the reason I kept the coil on the main pressure hose. As you will see it is connected up to the other power steering line using a special type of rubber grommet which can be bought seperately. However they are pricey at £10 each from the dealer. This would likely explain why the high pressure hose costs a lot as it has those 3 grommets attached to the coil.

My ones had broken in half and had been held together with cable ties. So rather than doing this and for the matter of principle of not paying £30 for a small piece of rubber that will degrade again, I made up my own using plastic nylon spacers at approx the right length to the original grommets. So I found a company who sell on ebay and bought a pack of 10 for £3.70 and got some nuts and bolts from my work place.

So here's the rubber grommet:
1031 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

And replacements:
1032 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

So got the rack back and was time to fit the lines back in as you will see its connected together:
1033 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
1034 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
1035 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Then it was a case of putting the tank in, and connecting up the quick release lines to the cooling coil.
1036 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
1037 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Final inspection and all fitted in place:
1038 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
1039 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

All I needed to do now was fill up the power steering reservoir with fresh fluid and checked for any leaks before dropping the car back down.

So next was a wheel alignment so took it down to Wheel Power on a recommendation. So with now everything lined up correctly it will be outstanding jobs which I'll give to an indy to do.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DJ Syxx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Sep 2018 at 4:32pm
Since owning my M3 I have always tried to keep up with the maintenance of the car and it has been relatively plain sailing until I found out my steering rack was weeping. So after looking into exactly what is involved in removing the rack I decided to give it some thought first.

So around October it had been 6 years since picking the grey beast up and apart from reciepts of parts I have bought it during that time I had a look through again the history of the car prior to my ownership.

Its not needed that much or had the common stuff replaced like track rods or other wear and tear bits. I have reciept bills for a replacement control arm and bush and apart from brake pads, coilpacks, usual servicing but not had a lot thrown at it.

So going back to giving it some thought and with the steering rack in the condition it was in I figured kill a bunch of birds with one stone. I was debating whether to tackle the job myself or give it to a independant due to time constraints with working and looking after my son. So I made a plan of doing some work myself and some will be given to a trustworthy independant.

So onto the shopping list and initial plan of work:

Refurb steering rack
New track/tie rods and ends
New gaiters and clips
New front control arms and pre pressed OEM bushes.
New lower steering column guibo
Gearbox mounts
All 3 diff seals
Updated diff bolts
Propshaft coupler (flex disc)
Propshaft centre bearing

The jobs I have decided to tackle is anything related to the front axle but this of course you need parts so I went on a shopping spree!

So I made an order for this lot:
968 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Obligatory nuts bolts and washers:
981 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Lemforder track/tie rods and febi gaiters.
969 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Lemforder control arms and bushes:
970 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Diff seals, propshaft flex disc, centre bearing and gearbox mounts:
973 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Lower steering arm joint:
974 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Nuts and bolts:
981 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Found something interesting. Most of these parts were not bought from the dealer but a reputable parts company for much less and are OEM parts that BMW would have sold you but with a premium. It is known that for example that lemforder supply BMW for the control arms, tie rods and bushes.

My FCA bushes are lemforder items but notice the part number has been removed along with BMW:
971 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

The front control arms here if you notice the BMW logo and ///M logo has been removed:
972 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

The flex disc guibo is supplied by febi bilstein but is originally made by SGF again this is the same part BM would have sold you notice the removed part number and BMW logo:
977 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
976 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

The centre bearing supplied through febi bilstein also has the BMW and part number removed:
980 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
978 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
979 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DJ Syxx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Sep 2018 at 4:27pm
So as some of you know I sold off my 3 piece Oz Mito wheels. Kinda regret doing it but at the same time it was hassle maintaining them and having to adjust the ride height to have the right look.

I made a promise not to buy anymore wheels and concentrate on the car but there's always a temptation. As an ACS fan I am a big fan of the type 2 monobloc wheels so casual browsing on ebay a few years back I found a set and made a deal.

These are quite rare as they are the 10x18 rear and 8.5x18 front.

As usual I gave them to Dips at Custom Cars to refurb them back to new in the same colour.

945 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
946 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
947 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
948 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
949 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Had a spare set of tyres off the previous wheels so got them mounted on:
950 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
951 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
952 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

And some photos I took at Gaydon BMW Show:
953 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
956 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
958 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
960 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
962 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
963 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
964 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
966 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
967 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DJ Syxx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Sep 2018 at 4:26pm
Afternoon fellow club members.

Been a while since I've updated this thread!

Done a bit work with it and next month it will be 7 years of ownership which is the longest time I have ever owned a car. I do have no plans to sell ever and be a nice hand me down to my son once he grows up!

So going to copy and paste what has been done so far and maybe useful to members reading this if working on their own cars.

So I've done what I wanted to do with the car and getting it where it is so now I'm gonna concentrate on the maintenance side and changing bits here and there and this starts off with replacing the windscreen cowl.

My one has faded badly and has cracked in areas so I ordered a replacement. The part number you need is 51718232896 and costs around £42 (2016 prices).

So here's the cowl in its current condition:
926 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
927 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

So I started by marking out the wiper position. Don't have to but just gives you an idea when you refit:
928 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
929 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

You need to pop the cover off and undo the 15mm nut:
930 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Next you will need a puller tool as you won't get the wiper arm off with just pulling at it:
931 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Once that is done, remove the pollen filter cover and filter and undo the Torx T27 bolts holding the housing. Remember to unclip the cable and hose connector beneath.
932 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

You then need to start lifting up the cowl from one side and pop it off. They are held in with clips, you may find one or two still in the body of the car so simply use pliers to remove. Once that is done you need to take the big long rubber seal off so you can use it on your new one as shown.
933 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

There's the old knackered one as you will see and the manufacturer date of June 2002:
934 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
935 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Here is the new one, I coated it with black vinyl dressing:
936 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Fit the long rubber seal on the new one and make sure both sides are equal in terms of gap. Now you simply refit and as you will see it really freshens up the car.
937 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Next I finally got round to taking the car to my local dealer to have passenger and driver airbags replaced under the recall.

As you will know I had my steering wheel retrimmed and the new airbag is unit is fresher.

Before:
939 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

After:
940 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

My AC diffuser comes with silver bolts which I am not a huge fan as it sticks out too much against the black. So after trying a set of replacement black bolts they lasted for all but 5 minutes and had corroded. I then found a company through ebay who sell stainless steel hex screws that are coated in black. The company is carbolts.co.uk and he said these have a special coating on them so are highly resistant to the elements/normal washing etc. So I gave them a go and happy to report they look no different to when I first swapped them.

The size you need is M4x16mm socket button in black.

As you can see it blends in much better with the gloss black of the diffuser:
941 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
942 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
943 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
944 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote mr.eldridge Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2016 at 1:06pm
Such a nice looking M3, looks fantastic after all the hard work you've put into it! Brakes look sweet and that gauge pod thing too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rpennington Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jul 2016 at 5:51pm
I'll look out for you
2011-E90 325d M Sport
1999-E46 323i se Saloon - Sold

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DJ Syxx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jul 2016 at 12:50pm
Originally posted by rpennington rpennington wrote:

Hi dj
It has been a while!!! & I can see you have also been a busy boy with all the mods & reburbishments. Fantastic improvement on the seats & I like the look of that steering wheel. I have thought about having my leather done & possibly a few carbon engine detailing.
If you are at Gaydon festival I would love to have a better look & have a chat regarding these & get some contact info from you if that's ok.

Keep up the good work

Regards
Rich


Thanks Rich and it certainly has lol. I shall be at Gaydon on the Custom Cars stand so will see you then Wink

Rich.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote rpennington Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jul 2016 at 3:50pm
Hi dj
It has been a while!!! & I can see you have also been a busy boy with all the mods & reburbishments. Fantastic improvement on the seats & I like the look of that steering wheel. I have thought about having my leather done & possibly a few carbon engine detailing.
If you are at Gaydon festival I would love to have a better look & have a chat regarding these & get some contact info from you if that's ok.

Keep up the good work

Regards
Rich
2011-E90 325d M Sport
1999-E46 323i se Saloon - Sold

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DJ Syxx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2016 at 10:51pm
And this brings us up to date.

After seeing the F10 M5 gear knob being fitted in quite a few cars now and being illuminated I decided to take the plunge on one. Part number for it is 25112284205.

So I got on with removing the old gear knob. After reading stories of being smacked in the face I did wonder if the same fate would happen but it was very stubborn and I couldn't lift it up but luckily I had a monkey wrench to help remove it.

I also hadn't realised or noticed my original gear knob not lighting up until I found the two wires had broken clean off the wiring connector.

My old one was quite worn and the top had started to peel so ideal time to replace:
784 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

The F10 M5 gearknob comes with the leather gaiter attached to the frame so you would need to remove it first by removing all the staples and then carefully detatching it from the frame as it is glued.
785 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
786 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Once that's done you need remove the gaiter off your existing frame so that you can attach the new gaiter to it. Done a quick trial fit.
787 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

I used clothes pegs to position the gaiter until I was happy and then removed a few and applied adhesive so that it bonds to the frame.

Once that's done then you can fit it back to the car and connect the loom for the illumination which is plug and play and here's the result:
788 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
789 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

To compliment the gear knob and after reading many postitive reviews I went ahead and bought an E60 short shift kit which is used on the 530/545/550 models. As I don't have small hands and being awkard to do on the driveway I took it to a place where a few mates had theirs done.
794 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

After fitting it I was really impressed, firstly the gear change now is much more precise and direct, the gear lever is not sloppy anymore which probably was down to the worn bush but makes such a nice difference. Its not too short or overly notchy so a worthwhile upgrade. As you can see the lever sits lower over the OEM.
795 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Part numbers are 25117546373 for the lever, 25111220600 bush and 25117571899 circlip.

Next up is the steering wheel and I got Jack at Royal Steering Wheels on the case.

After speaking with him on the phone to discuss what I wanted he got on with it and took a drive up to him to have my old one swapped over for the newly trimmed one.

I went for perforated sides and smooth top/bottom padded with cinnamon stitching and a cinnamon centre stripe.

Here's before:
790 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

And after:
791 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
792 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
793 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

My old wheel was in pretty good condition but you can't beat this new wheel. It just feels so much nicer to grip when your driving along now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DJ Syxx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2016 at 10:49pm
And now for the big update! Always wanting a BBK but never quite pulling the trigger well last year I did. A set of front and rears came up and after a phonecall went to collect them from Imran at Evolve.

They were in the original red but I wanted to make them a little different so I gave them to Dips at Custom Cars to strip and paint in a nice orange hue.

Here they are painted:
771 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
772 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
774 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

So got on with fitting them on, rears had to trim the backing plate and same for the front but otherwise easy enough fit the only ball ache was bleeding as they have 2 bleed nipples per caliper.

Couple of pics of the car recent with brakes on.
776 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
777 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
778 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Thanks to Dips for painting these.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DJ Syxx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2016 at 10:47pm
Wanting to make my engine bay properly complete with all the carbon goodies in there, I had a carbon fibre cover while looking great kinda wished it looked like the OEM with the spine grooves. After seeing Paul46's one I bought a spare cover so this could be done.

I was going to use my guy in Thailand, NVD Autosport but because of shipping and import charges it would likely become a little expensive specially as the cover is quite big.

So I then found another carbon skinning specialist who seemed to have the same work quality but is based in Poland called Jaydee Customs. After seeing his work I enquired about getting it skinned and we agreed a price and I sent it off.

I got it back and like a excited kid opening up a present I had a big grin. He skinned it beautifully with no visible signs of defects etc.
765 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
766 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
768 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

So I got on with fitting it on, as its OEM it fits perfectly and I think it completes my bay.
779 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
780 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
781 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
782 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DJ Syxx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2016 at 10:45pm
Considered the holy grail of exhaust mods I decided to on impulse to grab a set of Supersprint Headers after getting fustrated with Status Gruppe not making the RHD versions for our cars.

As many know they are pricey to begin with so soon as this set came up I had to have it so went to pick it up. Took some pics of it and have to say the workmanship is top notch the smoothness of the welds and the overall design is brilliant. Its just a shame you can't see these on show. I'll let the pics do the talking....
750 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
751 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
752 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
753 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
754 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
755 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
756 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
757 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
758 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
759 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
760 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
761 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

I usually DIY on this car but seeing what I was up against and really you need a ramp for this job I asked a few indy's who have a good rep and have experience with fitting these.

Got in touch in Matt at ETA Motorsport after a recommendation and got the car booked in for fitting. As they were busy took a few weeks to get in which worked out perfect as I could order all new nuts, bolts and gaskets for the job.

While it was up on the ramp Matt had a look to see if there was anything that needed addressing and apart from new gearbox mounts Matt said everything else is all good, which is good to know. As the expansion tank connector had to be removed I asked Matt to renew the coolant as it was also on my to do list.

Verdict? It seems a bit more eager and responsive now and has a bit more of a growl. They did recommend I get the map tweaked to get the most out of it as I also have 100 cell cats and Eisenmann Race rear fitted so will be getting that done with Evolve and will get a dyno printout to see what the true power is now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DJ Syxx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2016 at 10:44pm
Next I finally got round to fitting my boot release switch which I bought nearly a year ago. Anyone wanting to do it the part numbers you need are:
61130005197 x4 pin wires
61136954554 x1 housing connector
61318365579 x1 boot switch

Also need around a couple of meters of speaker wire to use to extend the wiring from the switch, there's various DIY's on how to do it so not hard just taking various trims from the dash off.

You can get plenty of boot switches on ebay for around £5 so all in with the above you need should cost less than £20 fitted. Its a handy mod specially with a CSL boot as it has no handle.
764 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DJ Syxx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2016 at 10:43pm
So been some weeks since I've updated this thread not done a lot this year but there's always something!

Firstly needed to replace my battery the old one had sadly seen better days and wasn't holding its charge as good weirdly didn't come up with a yellow to replace as it was showing a black circle plus being the original battery I'm surprised it lasted this long.
762 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

So went and got a brand new Bosch S5 010, ordered from carparts4less for £90 delivered. It fits perfect and you simply remove the hose connector and black plastic plug from your old battery and fit to this one.
763 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

As a comparison the Bosch S5 weighs in at 19kg but the OEM battery I removed weighed 21.6kg. Not that I am after weight saving but a nice to know and every little helps. Most importantly car now starts up more positively.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DJ Syxx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2016 at 10:42pm
So brings me to my newest additions to the car (which was fitted 2 months back lol). As many know I was running D2 coilovers which were decent but the only thing that let them down was the top mounts not being offset.

As many know the M3 use offset top mounts to increase the castor angle. I asked D2 directly if an offset mount was available after numerous emails in explaining why the M3 is different and was told there isn't one that is supplied with the coilovers for the M3.

They do a separate top mount which apparently is their 3d mount which has castor adjust. So I asked the distributors here in the UK for info and a price but to no avail so due to the lack of decent support I got pissed off and decided to see if a set of 2nd hand BC coilovers would turn up. Luckily Styler the forum sponsor on M3Cutters was doing a special offer on BC coilovers so I decided to snap it.

You can get them in different spring rates and the normal default package is 8kg front and 12kg rear. I had read on here that some found it a little on the hard side so I had Styler order them for me with 10kg rear for a better compromise. Didn't take many pics as you get the idea of what they look like.

746 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Initial thoughts were good, they felt similar to the D2's I had and perform as they should. Downside which I noticed was it does transmit more noise through the body mainly when you go over say cracks or ruts in the road, but other than that can't fault them. Most importantly I got my castor angle back to what it should be as previously it was around 5.3-5.4 and now its up to 7.2-7.3 which is the perfect range.

While I swapped out my suspension I wanted something to finish off the engine bay in terms of strut bar. I looked into the AC schnitzer item but it was hit and miss if they fit with camber plates. I came across a different bar one evening and had a browse on Rogue Engineerings website and really liked the look of it.

Its a one piece bar made from steel and had the rigid and sturdy look I was looking for. So I contacted Ejaz at 0-60motorsport to order in one for me. The only downside to the bar is when fitting you have to move the strut a little so its lined properly to fit it down on to the strut tower.
747 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Compared with the stock bar this is just so much more beefier and strong:
748 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Big thanks to Ejaz for supplying the bar.

Cheers for looking :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DJ Syxx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2016 at 10:39pm
Some of you will have already seen how my engine bay looks from shows this year but haven't posted on my build thread what was added since fitting a GSR airbox along with a carbon fibre intake piece and rocker cover over a year ago.

So beginning of the year I wanted to add some more just to finish it off so I looked through some options like carbon hydro dipping but seen a few examples of it and wasn't impressed with the finish so looking to find someone who could do carbon skinning properly.

I found a guy in Thailand named Prapan from NVD Autosport who does carbon skinning of original parts and done in an excellent way from the work I saw. So I took the plunge and send him a few bits which were my xenon ballast cover, ecu cover and emission pump cover. I got him to supply me a pollen filter cover as it saved me on sending a bigger box to him.

So they came back and I was amazed with the quality and workmanship. There is not one lacquer overspray or carbon overhanging corners etc. I really couldn't fault it. I'll let the pics do the talking.....

ECU Cover
Carbon Engine Bits (1) by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Carbon Engine Bits (2) by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Xenon Ballast Cover
Carbon Engine Bits (3) by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Carbon Engine Bits (4) by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Carbon Engine Bits (5) by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Emissions Pump Cover
Carbon Engine Bits (6) by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Carbon Engine Bits (7) by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Pollen Filter Cover
Carbon Engine Bits (8) by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Carbon Engine Bits (9) by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Carbon Engine Bits (10) by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Fitted to the engine bay:
Carbon Engine Bits (11) by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Carbon Engine Bits (12) by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Carbon Engine Bits (13) by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Carbon Engine Bits (14) by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Carbon Engine Bits (15) by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Carbon Engine Bits (16) by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Carbon Engine Bits (17) by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
Carbon Engine Bits (18) by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DJ Syxx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2016 at 10:38pm
As many of you know I have the rare cinnamon interior which I got very lucky to find in the first place a few years back. The only thing I was always a little disappointed with was the condition of the leather as it had been taken out of a car that had done over 130k miles so wasn't the best but least it made a nice addition against the steel grey exterior.

Apart from going full re-trim which would have cost a fair wedge I looked into colonising the leather as the interior was in a state where it was still salvageable. So Dips got me in contact with Alex at Elite Car Care who specialises in detailing paintwork, leather colonising, interior detailing and detailing products which can be found on his website http://www.elitecarcare.co.uk/

So after speaking with Alex to get the car booked in, finally got a slot to drop the car off to his workshop in Maidenhead a few weeks back and left the car in his hands.

So process was to clean the interior down, make any repairs needed and then to recolonise the seats and door cards. His process brings the interior back to a point in keeping with the cars age and the natural crease lines are left alone as filling them would very likely crack and peel which will make the interior look worse. Only thing he couldn't do was redo my stitching on the drivers bolster which has come away a little but no biggie.

As cinnamon is not an easy match it took a little longer to get the right match for my interior and as Alex wanted to make sure the job was spot on I was happy to wait.

Got the call to collect the car and made my way down last week. Soon as I opened the drivers door the difference was literally like night and day and he done a great job in bringing the leathers back to life. The drivers seat had excessive wear as well as a hole on the bolster which Alex said is not a problem at all to repair along with a cigarette burn on the rear bench seat.

All the scuff marks had gone and the interior has a uniform colour compared to before where it was a little discoloured in some places.

Here's the before pics:
658 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
659 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
660 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
661 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
662 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
663 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
664 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
665 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
666 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
667 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
668 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
669 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

And here's after with Alex's handy work:
670 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
671 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
672 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
673 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
674 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
675 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
676 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
677 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
678 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
679 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
680 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
681 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

A big thanks goes to Alex at Elite Car Care for an excellent job bringing the interior back to life.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DJ Syxx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2016 at 10:37pm
My car had suffered the fate of the dreaded subframe boot crack albeit not critical. I had been checking on it and it had not spread much partly as I don't drive the car much and doesn't see track days etc.

This year I wanted to get it done without fail as I didn't want to neglect it any longer. Originally plan was to buy the plates and weld them in to contain the problem. After a seeing a large number of threads on the subject on m3cutters with ETA motorsport being praised on how they do the job and not charging as much as Reddish I gave a call to them to see what was what. After speaking to whoever it was on the phone, they use their own metal plates and were not interested in the Reddish plates or for that matter to use them. They briefly explained their process but I did feel after the conversation with whoever it was on the phone they gave quite a blunt type of response to my questions and what they do more so when I mentioned about the reddish plates.

So pondering on it I remember a while back Blair's E46 LS1 engined E46 had the boot floor strengthened by Craig at Dynotorque and after seeing the pics on Blairs build thread as well as the big Driftwork projects they undertake along with his great fabrication skills I decided to give Craig a call to find out what he charges and his process. He explained his repair method in detail but doesn't use reinforcement plates anymore as it doesn't solve the issue of the boot floor flexing and cracking. Thing I found was Craig gives you the time of day when he talked through his process. I also spoke to a few others who had their boot floors repaired by Craig and they were happy with the job and how it was done and none have reported any cracks or failures since, price wise it is a little more expensive than ETA but cheaper than Reddish.

Being as the subframe carrier was going to come out for the job I wanted to get replacement bushes so I spoke to Ben Koflach at Hack Engineering who also praised his work and recommended I would be in good hands if he does the job. Ben recommended the Revshift bushes but the slightly softer compound which would be perfect for my needs and I decided to keep with OEM RTAB.

So after giving it much thought I got the car finally booked in last month and took the drive up to Birmingham to Dynotorque to leave the car there for about a week.

Here's the crack which I spotted first time round, pic was taken around a year ago this was after cleaning the underseal. The crack hadn't spread but was obviously still present.
608 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Craig couldn't send me many pictures of the repair but managed a few but his process involves checking for any cracks in the floor area and repair. Upon inspection the only crack that was present was the one above on the rear passenger where they start to go first.

Boot floor area cut open:
610 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
612 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Crack visible from the inside of the boot floor where its been cut open
611 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Welded up:
613 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

As you see he has cut open the boot floor area. Those wondering why its simple, he does this to weld in metal bars across the mounting areas to strengthen and reinforce. This basically beefs up the area and Craig said this reinforcement method ensures that the floor will never flex and for that matter crack again.

While the subframe was dropped out to have the work done Craig replaced the subframe bushes along with the RTAB. Big thanks to Ben at Hack Engineering for getting the revshift bushes in for me in time.
609 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Fitted:
614 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
615 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
616 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Craig noted that my old bushes were perfectly fine upon inspection which is not bad going considering they have never been replaced.

He also checked if my brake lines were not corroded and they were fine too.

Once all put back together he then underseals it to protect from corrosion as well as the boot floor. Couldn't get any proper pics from underneath but you get the idea.
617 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
618 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
619 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
620 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr
621 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

After getting the car back Craig did praise and say the car has been looked after and there was little to no issue when taking apart the rear end which was a great compliment by him. Impressions now its been reinforced? The car did noticeably feel tighter at the rear end and feels more planted. After getting it aligned back home it felt better than before. Early days yet I know but so far I am satisfied with the work done and definitely would recommend Dynotorque for the subframe repair.

So with the boot floor done and dusted I moved onto doing a few subtle things. Firstly bought a set of smoked fog lights to replace my stone chipped ones and I found a set of Hamann fog covers which sit further in to the bumper as opposed to sitting flush plus these ones fit so much better. I gave them to Dips to spray up and now fitted to the car.
622 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

Next I wanted to make my Oz Mito's a little wider. It kinda bugged me they weren't proper 11x18 as they were 10.75x18. At the time of working out dish sizes I played it safe and went for a 3.25 which looked good but really wanted it to be 3.5 or more to make it a 11" wide wheel. So I got Dips to order 2 new lips for me measuring 3.75 taking my wheels to 11.25x18. Dips stripped the rears down and rebuilt them back up.
623 by DJ Syxx, on Flickr

I also thought going up half an inch wouldn't make much difference but unfortunately my 265/35/18 would catch the arches even though it was rolled and running 2 deg camber. It was two options at this point, camber arms or downsize tyres. So not wanting to have increase tyre wear due to camber I bought a new set of tyres and for the front too as it wouldn't have looked right so fresh Continental sport 3 255/35/18 and 225/40/18 were ordered. Going down to these sizes has enabled me to drop it a little more as well as fronts couldn't go lower with previous setup and has given me the much needed clearance.

So I now have the previous tyre setup taking space but they will be used for another set of wheels I picked up not long ago, so watch this space. ;)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DJ Syxx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2016 at 10:36pm
Next on the list was the exhaust. Currently I have the Eurostyle tailpipes on the OEM backbox which is fine but always wanted an a back box just for a little added noise. The OEM exhaust is still a great thing so I wanted something that would be still on par with it but gave more.

You have the likes of Supersprint, Scorpion, Borla, Active Autowerks etc. etc. but Eisenmann for me is still the best one out there. So random browsing on ebay and I found a secondhand one for sale which was in good condition. So struck a deal and got it collected.

I finally got round to getting fitted on the Easter weekend.

So started to undo my exhaust clamps which were a doddle as there the 2 piece stainless steel versions.
593 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

Removed my back bumper to make the job easier and got a support for the exhaust and undone the exhaust hanger bolts which took ages to remove.
594 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

Got the jacks in place and pulled the exhaust down:
595 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
596 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

Undo the bolt attaching the hanger to the exhaust:
597 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

Here's my Eisenmann in all its glory. This one is the Race Version and has 82mm tailpipes
598 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
599 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
600 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

Got the hangers attached to the Eisenmann and then a case of mounting it to the car so got the connecting pipes joined together:
601 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

All mounted in place:
603 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

Copper greased the threads to help prevent seizing and to make it easier to tighten up the bolts:
602 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
604 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

And job done:
605 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
606 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
607 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

Here's a little sound clip:
Eisenmann Race Exhaust BMW E46 M3 - YouTube

Plans later this year is:

Subframe repair
Going 1/2 inch wider on the Mitos making it 11.25x18
Recolonise leather interior
Steering wheel retrim by Jack with cinnamon stitching
Few more carbon goodies for the engine bay

Also picked up these too 6 pot front and 4 pot rear but will need to do a trial fit to see if there is clearance issues with the Mitos and if spacers are needed and what sizes etc. If they clear or don't need a massive spacer they will then get repainted in a dark orange.

592 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DJ Syxx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 2016 at 10:35pm
Neglected this thread for quite sometime so going to copy and paste what's been done since the last time, here goes!

So........

I saw a video demo of a P3 gauge which fits in your air vent so a replacement. It basically gives you a read out of the car in terms of RPM, oil temp, coolant etc. etc.

Unfortunately they don't seem to work properly with the E46 M3. I then found by chance a company in the states who were selling these digital vent gauges which again are a replacement.

I then found out through more google searching that the gauges were made by a German company called Awron who sell them for various BMW models.

I really liked the look of it and after seeing a demo of it working I had to have one. So I contacted them and got them to send me one out for my RHD car. They also make them for LHD cars too. The gauge is pre installed by them in the factory vent and all you do is replace your existing one. You can also ask for yours to feature boost pressure etc. if your running a turbo/S/C.

Its touchscreen as well so you simply touch it to view the parameters you want.

Here is what you can view:
RPM Level
Oil Temperature
Water Temperature
Intake Temperature
Exhaust Temperature
Throttle Angle
O2 sensor values
Voltage
Two Axis G-Meter
0-60 mph & 0-120 mph Acceleration Timer
Maximum Recorded Values

Here's the unit as it comes:
571 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
572 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

The supplied wiring loom:
574 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

Wiring is pretty straightforward as is removing the existing vent.

You need to unscrew the drivers underpanel and unclip the OBD wire plug. 3 wires are connected to the plug.
573 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

Then need to remove and unplug the LCM:
575 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

Slide out the connectors and connect one wire from the loom:
576 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
577 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

Then simply put it all back together and unit fitted:

578 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
579 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

These are what you can view on the screen:
580 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
583 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
584 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
585 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
586 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
587 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
588 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
589 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

Couple of pics shown in the dash:
590 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
591 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

Here's a video demo:
[youtube]Awron Digital Vent Gauge BMW E46 M3 - YouTube[/youtube]

Its a nice bit of kit and adds a little something to the dash. Downside is you lose one vent but to be honest I never use the dash vents except for controlling the temp. Is a nice bit of kit and for the geeks out there wanting to see what's going with their car while driving it.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote JimF Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jan 2015 at 6:41pm
I absolutely love this car! Ambers, cinnammon interior, splits...
Gorgeous!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DJ Syxx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct 2014 at 1:06pm
Originally posted by rpennington rpennington wrote:

It was good to chat with you & to see the car in the flesh at gaydon,looked stunning.

Wheels look great & I think the smoked lights look a lot better than the amber.

I have clear lenses on my e46, where do you get the stuff from to smoke them & is it easy to do?

Regards
Rich


Thanks Rich good to meet you to and have a chat as well.

My front and side indicators are replacement smoked lights made by Depo. They have them available for the saloon as well.

The rear lights I used Lamin-X which is a bit like tint film but slightly thicker and more hard wearing. Its not the easiest thing to use though as you need to cut to shape so a little patience and borrowing the missus hairdryer makes it easier to apply.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote rpennington Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 2014 at 9:01pm
It was good to chat with you & to see the car in the flesh at gaydon,looked stunning.

Wheels look great & I think the smoked lights look a lot better than the amber.

I have clear lenses on my e46, where do you get the stuff from to smoke them & is it easy to do?

Regards
Rich
2011-E90 325d M Sport
1999-E46 323i se Saloon - Sold

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DJ Syxx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 2014 at 7:34pm
We are well into Autumn and with winter approaching and show season finished for this year I polished the mitos up ready for storage till next year. Few weeks ago I decided to get my winter wheels refurbed as they were never touched and had some pitting as well as being a little discoloured and dull. There were a few kerb marks here and there but nothing major so Dips did his usual magic.

Haven't got any before shots but here is how they are now and are like new:
507 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
508 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
509 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

Some wheel refurbers when they powdercoat they lay it on too thick but these came out just right. The inside of the barrels and the back of the spokes came out very well. The stamps with the logos and part numbers are perfectly visible and not mushed due to a thick layer etc.
510 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
511 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
512 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
513 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
514 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
515 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

Next to add a little twist to the wheels those that remember my 2 piece racing versions I had the design element spoke inserts which give a different look to the wheels.

I managed to grab a set designed to fit the 19" spokes which make it look a bit like an AC Schnitzer type 2 hybrid, plus these are rare. Having never seen them fitted to the one piece type 3's it was a bit of gamble. So comments if you think they look good with them on is appreciated.

So I got cracking with fitting the elements on:
533 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

Went out for a little drive and I grabbed a few photos. Excuse the quality I used a compact camera but you get the idea.....oh and the smoked lights are back on lol

516 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
518 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
520 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
522 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
523 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
528 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
529 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

Big thank you to Dips for bringing my wheels back to life. :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DJ Syxx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Sep 2014 at 12:32pm
Thanks guys.

Not much to report, found a few pics online of mine from Gaydon:







Kos from C-Unit took this excellent rolling shot on our way to Gaydon.


I recently purchased a Matt Haley oil filter cover housing custom machined from Aluminum and fits on top of the oil filter cover which makes a nice addition to the engine bay. Hit it with some britemax metal polish and has come out a treat.

20140827_162557 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
20140827_162615 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
20140827_162644 by djsyxx6, on Flickr


Took some photos the other night trying out a 30mm fixed lens I bought a while back. Got a lot to learn with it I took a whole load of shots trying to get the car more in focus with the backdrop blurred out a little. Getting the hang of it but with some practice I can get a little better.

484 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
485 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
486 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
487 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
488 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
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499 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
506 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

Cheers for looking :)
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FwordM3 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote FwordM3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jul 2014 at 9:42pm
Love it!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DJ Syxx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jul 2014 at 10:54pm
Just recently put it through its MOT and touchwood went through without dramas. Little while back I bought a set of stainless steel exhaust clamps as my old ones were basically rotted through so I got these ones which were made up by a forum member on m3cutters which will last a hell of a lot longer than buying a replacement OEM set.

Haven't got a pic of the corroded clamps but I'm sure its visible in a couple of pics when I was fitting my coilovers. I bought new gasket rings, nuts and bolts to do the job. Was around Dips place at the Custom Cars, grounded off whatever remants where left of the old ones and Dips got on with fitting them in place.

480 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
483 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

I was out and about the other day and took some fresh photos up in Chalfont making the usual change to the industrial estate backgrounds I normally use lol. Thanks for looking. :)

453 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
456 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
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468 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
469 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
473 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
476 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
478 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DJ Syxx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jul 2014 at 10:54pm
End of May I was a bit bored so I thought I'd go see my good close friend Dips from Custom Cars for a catch up. He also had a little surprise for me in store with my wheels finally ready and built up.

They were all sealed up a few days ago to allow for the bead seal to harden. So while I set out to load up the tyres he got the new metal valves ready.

Last year I had made my mind up to sell my AC Schnitzer type 3 splits which then left me with the question of what do I run as something different. As many of you know I was after hartge splits in 18" form but they are rare and when they do come up come with a massive price tag.

So after looking at different styles and looking on M3forum an Stanceworks to get some inspiration I looked to see what was for sale which I could put my stamp on.

I very nearly bought a set of Oz Futuras around Xmas time but due to me being indecisive they got sold. So I looked at other possibilities. Criteria had to be something old school but not too old, 3 piece and with usable offsets in order to make them wider without having much issue to getting them to fit.

A lot of people thought I might have gone with AC Schnitzer type 2 splits as it seemed a logical choice as some of you know I'm a big fan of the early stuff but had to be something different that no one else had.

Beginning of the year I had a number of wheels as possible contenders and with advice from Dips I went ahead done the deal on the wheels whilst on a holiday in Morocco!

So they arrived after I came back from holiday and were promptly dropped off to Dips who kept them for safe keeping. The wheels hadn't been refurbed as it still had the time stamp stickers of October 1999!

After doing an initial trial fit and working out what lips to run, Dips had them ordered up and a full refurb was carried out, so all 4 barrels stripped and powdercoated along with the centres. Two lips that were ordered were already polished ready to go which just left the lips that were going on the front to be polished.

I was amazed when they came back in its new form and couldn't believe how stunning they were and Dips had done a damn fine job with them. These are also very rare and don't come up often in 18's as opposed to the ones with the bolts going around the centre and have yet to see another M3 with them on.

So here they are in there finished form, they measure up as 9x18 for the front and 10.75x18 for the rear. Tyre sizes I went for 235/40/18 and 265/35/18 respectively and through a mate managed to get a set of Continental Sport Contact 3 all round for a very good price.

386 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
385 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
387 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

After a trial fitment it needed an arch roll so Dips done his magic to clear a bit more room:
388 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

After fitting them on it was recommended by Steve who happened to be passing through to put a 5mm spacer on for the front just to push it out slightly so here they are.

390 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
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403 by djsyxx6, on Flickr
404 by djsyxx6, on Flickr

A big thanks to goes to Dips from Custom Cars for an excellent job on the wheels and arch rolling and to Steve for the spacer recommendation.
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