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Cleaning black plastic trim |
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dteagles
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Joined: 09 May 2007 Location: UK, Bucks Status: Offline Points: 3476 |
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Topic: Cleaning black plastic trimPosted: 06 Jan 2012 at 10:55pm |
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I have been looking for a good reliable way to remove dried on wax from black plastic trim for years and have tried all manner of cleaners and treatments but most only work well on already clean plastics or else they simply mask the engrained wax.
There is talk all over various forums about the use of peanut butter in the cleaning of black plastic trim and so far I have resisted since I was doubtful....but recently I spotted a thread that pointed out the fact that it's not that it's peanut butter but that it contains peanut oil and that dissolves the wax..... So that got me thinking, and rummaging through the kitchen cupboards for oil.....I didn't find any peanut oil but I did find walnut oil, close enough for a try I thought. My sons Clio has lots of black plastic and he wasn't that careful when we waxed it so I had a good guinea pig to try it out on, well, I couldn't believe it, I just put a drop on an old toothbrush and gently worked it in, you could actually see the oil turning slightly milky as the wax dissolved. When finished I simply buffed with a cloth, now it's only been a few hours since I did it but I have so say I am very impressed and there's no residue left behind, the plastic looks like new! I'll put some protector on it tomorrow and see how it lasts but it's a very cheap way to restore black plastic trim. Cheers, Darren.
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Smiller
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Posted: 10 Jan 2012 at 9:33am |
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Any before / during / after pics Darren?
Edited by Smiller - 10 Jan 2012 at 9:33am |
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dteagles
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Posted: 10 Jan 2012 at 9:36am |
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Funnily enough I spotted a bit I didn't treat around the sunroof so I'll see if I can do some before/after shots.
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AShah
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Joined: 27 Jul 2011 Location: Bridgend, Wales Status: Offline Points: 423 |
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Posted: 10 Jan 2012 at 9:55am |
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Apparently, if you heat the area with a heat gun first, carefully, then rub it in, the finish is more durable as it brings the "memory" factor back from the plastic.
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E36 home of South Wales!
'96 Alpina B3 3.2 Touring '91 325iSEA 4 Door Old: '93 325 Coupe '96 318is Coupe '92 320 Coupe '96 318is Coupe '97 328 Cabriolet '95 M3 4 Door '99 323 Sport Tourer |
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dteagles
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Posted: 10 Jan 2012 at 9:56am |
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I have read that too but I didn't want to risk damaging the plastic, especially when there is an easier and less damaging method!
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AShah
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Posted: 10 Jan 2012 at 3:56pm |
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http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=49673
Check out this thread, might give you an example if you want to give it a go!
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E36 home of South Wales!
'96 Alpina B3 3.2 Touring '91 325iSEA 4 Door Old: '93 325 Coupe '96 318is Coupe '92 320 Coupe '96 318is Coupe '97 328 Cabriolet '95 M3 4 Door '99 323 Sport Tourer |
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FwordM3
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Posted: 11 Jan 2012 at 8:03pm |
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Never heard of that before, as Walnut oil is very strong in its odour was there any residue from that?
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dteagles
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Posted: 16 Jan 2012 at 11:26am |
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No, no residue as such, after applying the oil with a small paint pad I wiped the excess off with a cloth and washed the car. When it was all dry I applied some Chemical Guys VRP.
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FwordM3
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Posted: 16 Jan 2012 at 12:26pm |
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Will give that a go when the time comes!
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dteagles
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Posted: 30 Jan 2012 at 1:16pm |
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Here's an example of a heat gun in use:
The trip I treated with the walnut oil and then Chemical Guys VRP went very dull after a couple of weeks so I tried some of this at the weekend: I suspect it won't be a long term solution though and so have ordered a heat gun to try that. The main caution with a heat gun is not to overheat the plastic or surrounding paint but also it has been reported that you can only treat a faded bumper with a heat gun 3-4 times before it is permanently faded as the heat gun draws out oils in the plastic. Having said this, if the finish lasts another 10 years then I'd be happy, and of course it's neglect that causes them to go white in the first place so make sure you keep them treated and the re-finished surface should last indefinitely!
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AShah
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Posted: 30 Jan 2012 at 2:33pm |
Indeed, i was going to say exactly that, treat with the heatgun and then seal it and keep on top of it!
I found heatgun then Dodo Juice Purple Haze keeps it looking nice and also protects it well.
Also i have been told that 303 aerospace protectant is good as well. Edited by AShah - 30 Jan 2012 at 2:34pm |
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E36 home of South Wales!
'96 Alpina B3 3.2 Touring '91 325iSEA 4 Door Old: '93 325 Coupe '96 318is Coupe '92 320 Coupe '96 318is Coupe '97 328 Cabriolet '95 M3 4 Door '99 323 Sport Tourer |
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BMW250L
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Posted: 21 Feb 2012 at 12:57pm |
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In the restoration of both my E3 and E30 I have had to rejuvinate many plastic and rubber trims.
I have found the best products and process to be the following; Rub the plastic or rubber trim with cellulose thinners on a clean cloth. This takes a layer of contamination off the item and returns it to a clean matt finish. I then liberally apply MER vinyl and trim cleaner, with another clean cloth and rub into texture, groves, edges, etc. Leave the item for 10 to 15 mins and the rub the residue off with yet another clean cloth. I appreciate that I have all the trim and rubbers off the car, so using cellulose thinners near painted surfaces needs serious care! But, even just the MER vinyl and trim cleaner alone appears to remove white polish residue from body trims. Cheers, Martin. Edited by BMW250L - 21 Feb 2012 at 12:57pm |
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AVadgama
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Posted: 29 Jul 2012 at 1:27am |
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for my e30 shadowline trim (when i get round to it) i plan to use this product....
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AShah
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Posted: 29 Jul 2012 at 3:28pm |
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Gtechniq stuff is well raved about, i'll have to try it someday!
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E36 home of South Wales!
'96 Alpina B3 3.2 Touring '91 325iSEA 4 Door Old: '93 325 Coupe '96 318is Coupe '92 320 Coupe '96 318is Coupe '97 328 Cabriolet '95 M3 4 Door '99 323 Sport Tourer |
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